Calk sole welting and the like



1935- w. c vzARD 2,0ll,958

CALK SOLE WELTING AND THE LIKE Filed April 30, 1951 lNVENTOR Patented Aug. 20, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CALK SOLE WELTING AND THE LIKE William C. Vizard, Brock mesne assignments, to

Brockton, Mass., a copartnership compose'd of Perley E. Barbour,

ton, Mass., assignor, by Barbour welting Com- Walter G. Barbour,

17 Claims.

of a calk welt and one successful use is in combination with Goodyear welting, the beaded edge.

lying in the welt crease of the shoe and forming an outwardly facing shoulder demarking the inner edge of the extension or exposed face' of the Goodyear welt. The welt has other uses, for example as attached to the sole of a McKay or nailed shoe in position forthe beaded edge to lie against the upper, as a flnishing welt for stitchdown shoes, or for any other use where welting having a beaded edge is desirable.

The object of the invention is to form-up a grain leather welt strip into calk sole welting, or the like, in such manner as to provide a grain covered beaded edge rising from a flesh bottom face without the use of extraneous covering material and so that a lifting or breaking away of the grain covering, especially at the lower edge of the outwardly facing shoulder which engages the underlying or supporting stock, is definitely and permanently prevented.

To the accomplishment of this object the invention comprises the'features and the process of manufacture hereinafter described, and then pointed out in its true scope in the appended claims.

An understanding of the novel features of the,

invention will be aided by inspection of the accompanying drawing, in which all of the figures are shown in perspective, i i

Figure 1 showing a portion of a blank welt strip;

Fig. 2 showing the first cutting thereon to produce a forming-up blank;

Fig. 3 showing said forming-up blank;

Fig. 4 showing said blank partially formed-up; Fig. 5 showingthe ormed-up blank prior to molding;

Fig. 6 showing the completed molded welting;

Fig. 7 showing a modification; and

Fig. 8 showing its use as a calk welt ina Goodyear shoe.

In the form of the invention illustrated in the drawing which delineates one good form embodying the principles involved, a blank strip o ofgrain leather is cut in a manner to remove ,a marginal portion !2 from the grain side and another marginal portion M from theflesh side. The portions are Conveniently removed in the form of strips leaving a' blank for use in the manufacture of the welting of the form shown in Fig. 3 having 'one rabbet !6 on the grain side and another rabbet l8 on the flesh side with a between-substance 20 formed by the unrabbeted stock between the proximate edges of the two rabbets. The grain side cut forms a thinned margin 22 wholly of the flesh, attached to one side of the between-substance, which eventually becomes the body of the finished welting. The flesh side cut forms a grain-f'aced extension 24' from the other side of the between-substanca, in the nature of a flap of variable width according to the selected width of the blank strip o, the grain of the between-substance and. the grain of this extension forming one continuous or uncut surface. I

Having prepared a blank for forming-up the first step is to bend the blank along the inner angle of the flesh side rabbet as a. hinge bringing the shoulder 26 into the plane of the adjacent' flesh margin22 as shown by Fig. 4, and the second step is to lay he grain-faced extension 24 over the between-substance 20 as shown by Fig. 5. The portions 22 and 24 have been cemented prior to forming.-up so 'that these forming-up operations and the final molding to shape the beaded edge 28 as shown by Fig. 6 may all be performed as a continuous operation on the substantially endless strips. The fact that the application of cement is conflned to the upper side of the forming-up blank, as shown by Fig. 3, will permit cutting, cementing, forming-up and molding all to be performed successively on a continuously running strip which results in a great saving in the process of manufacture.

` The beaded edge welting of Fig. 6 is formed from a formed-up blank having a flesh rabbet IB of greater width than the grain rabbet IB to provide a flap 24 which will cover the body 22. InFig. 7 I have shown a modification which enables the use of a blank !0 of less width and yet preserves an advantage presently to be described. In the welting of Fig. 7 the grain side cut to form a flesh margin orbody 22 is the same as before but the flesh side cut is much narrower producing a flap 30 only long enough to cover the between-substance 20. The dotted lines show the narrow flap 30- before laying it against the ungrained between substance. The rabbet IS may, if desired, be cut somewhat shallower to strengthen the *body 22.

It will be seen from Fig. 8 that when the welting of this invention is built intoa shoe of the well known Goodyear welt Construction its flesh bottom face lies against the Goo'dyear welt 32,

.its body 22, which may be covered by the graininsole by the inseam 34 and itsbeaded edge 28 lies snugly in the welt crease forming an out wardly facing shoulder. The beaded edge is surfaced by a continuous grain covering extending from the face of the underlying Goodyear, welt up and over the' bead as it rises from its bottom face and this grain covering at the critical point, that is upon the outwardly-facing shoulder, is the original, integral grain so that. it cannot possibly be picked up or pulled away at the lower'corner 38 during wear to present a ragged joint with the supporting stock and possibly expose underlying flesh. A further advantage of this welting is the extension of the grain surfacing over the inner side of the beaded edge and beneath 'the overlying upper. By doing this any opening of the welt crease will fail to expose anything but a grain face and unsightlyness in a worn shoe is overcome.

Attention is called to applicant's co-pending applications Serial No.-472,556, filed August 2, 1930, and Serial Nos. 635,570 and 635,571, filed September 30, 1932, disclosing other species of the invention herein shown and all covered by generic claims found herein to the welting and/or to its method of manufacture.. The claims of each of said co-pending applications will be found to be limited to the features of the disclosed welting or its method of manufacture not found in the disclosure of this application.

The nature and scope of the invention' having been indicated and its preferred embodiments and method of manufacture having been specifically described, what is claimed as new, is:--

1. Calk welting and the like for shoes which comprises a strip of grain leather having a marginal portion cut from the grain side and another marginal portion cut from the flesh side leaving a narrow intermediate portion of the full thickness of the strip having a grain face continuous' with the grain face of the stock in which the flesh side marginal cut was made, said stock being formed-up adjacent said intermediate portion to produce a beaded edge that is surfaced by said continuous grain face.

2. Calk welting and the like for shoes which comprises a strip of grain leather having one rabbet on the grain side and another rabbet on the flesh side with a between-substance formed by the unrabbeted stock between the proximate edges of the two rabbets, said strip being folded adjacent the between-substance and forming a beaded edge surfaced partly by the grain of the between-substance and partly by the grain of the flap that was rabbeted on the flesh side.

3. A blank for use in the manufacture of calkwelting and the like which consists of a strip of leather having grain on one side and flesh on the other, a rabbet having been formed on the grain side of the strip and another rabbet having been formed on the flesh side, there being a relatively narrow portion of the full thickness of the strip fo-rmed by the unrabbeted stock between the proximate edges of the two rabbets.

4. Welting for shoes formed from grain leather characterized by a flat under face, an inner margin of substantially even thickness for the major portion of the width of the welt, and a thicker'outer edge adjoining said margin consisting of a relatively narrow portion of the stock along said edge that is integral with the underlying stock immediately below it and rises therefrom above the level of said inner margin presenting abead along said outer edge, the beaded g faced extension 24, is Secured to the upper and edge thus formed being mainly of flesh stock and being surfaced in part by its integral grain and in part by a grain flap in extension of said integral grain and folded against and secured to an ungrained face of said beaded edge.

5. The method of making a blank for use in the manufacture of welting which comprises removing a marginal portion from the grain side and another marginal portion from the flesh side of a grain leather strip leaving a between-substance to the opposite sides of which the remaining marginal portions are attached.

6. The method of making leather welting having a grain-surfaced beaded edge which comprises rabbeting a strip from the flesh at one margin and rabbeting a strip from the grain at the other margin leaving a between-substance of the original strip thickness, then forming-up the grain faced extension left by said flesh inargin rabbet against said between-substance at one end of the flesh extension left by said grain rabbet,

said flesh extension forming a body for the welt.

'7. The method of making leather welting according to claim 6 wherein the rabbets in the grain side and flesh side of the strip are of substantially the same width.

8. One piece calk welting, and the like, for shoes, formed from a strip of grain leather having the stock at one edge thicker than the stock at the other edge, having a flesh bottom face, and having the natural grain at the thicker edge extending up from the flesh of the bottom face to present an integral, grain-surfaced welt edge.

9 The method of making one piece calk welting, and the like, which comprises removing from a strip of grain leather a portion of the grain adjacent one edge and a portion of the flesh adjacent the other edge, the two outs being separated by an intermediate uncut portion, and then combining and molding the remaining grain and said intermediate portion to shape a longitudinal edge bead and preserve the natural grain on the beaded edge of the finished welting.

10. A shoe welt strip formed from grain leather, having a body portion and a thicker edge portion integral with the body portion and forming a longitudinal bead, the exposed outer edge face of said bead from its base corner upward being surfaced by the original grain of the substance forming the thicker edge portion of the strip, and the bottom of the welt strip being flesh stock.

11. A shoe characterized by a one-piece leather welt located at the welt crease, said welt comprising a body portionsecured to the shoe within said welt crease and a thicker edge portion forming a bead exposed at said welt crease and presenting an outwardly-facing shoulder, the main body of said bead being formed of flesh stock and said outwardly-facing shoulder being surfaced from its base corner upward by the integral grain that Originally covered the flesh stock forming the main body of the bead behind said shoulder.

12. Calk welting of folded leather having a flat body and a margnal bead at the bight of the fold, said bead having an internal filler composed of an integral porti-on of the flesh of ,the leather which underlies the covering of said filler.

13. Leather welting consisting of a strip of leather folded to form a laminated body portion and having a thicker portion at the folded edge formed from an unfolded porti-on of the stock, integral with the body.

14. Leather welting consisting of a strip of leather folded to form a body having a planate bottom face and having a beaded edge presenting g'ain throughout its exposediace, all !oi-med of integral stock.

15. Leather welting consisting ot a strip of leather having a. aminated body portion, an integral head forming an outer edge ot both iamina-- tions of said body portion presenting a grain covered face on said outer edge, and a. planate bottom face.

16. The method of making welting which comprises removing stock from a strip of grain leather to leave two thinned wing portions connected by a narrow integral portion ot the full thickness of the strip, and then iolding one of said wing portions against said narrow integral portion and securing it 'to the other wing portion.

17. A shoe characterized by a. one-piece grain leather beaded welt located at the crease Iormed by the inlasted upper, said beaded welt having a flange-iike body secured to the shoe within said crease and a beaded edge formed by a thicker portion of the integral stock of the welt exposed at and providing an outwardly facing shoulder in said crease, said exposed portion of the welt presenting the grain of the stock from which the -welt and its integral bead is iormed.

WILLIAM c. VIZARD. 

